Day two! or day one... it really depends on how you look at it. We only had a few short horrible hours in Cork, mostly in the dull damp depressing darkness. So waking up and getting out of town was the first thing on my list! Which we did, never looking back. Im sure that Cork is actually a fantastic place, but it did not leave a great impression on us and we were glad to leave. HOWEVER. That was the end of our dislike. The second we got out away from Cork and headed towards Cobh, a city on the coast, we started to fall in love with Ireland. It diddnt take long and we fell fast, so fast that we were ready to be hitched by the time we reached Cobh, about a 20 minute drive. On the way there we passed rolling green hills and fantastic countryside... little did we know that would be NOTHING compared to what we would see later! We had got up and left early, thinking we would hit up the ATM and find a place for breakfast upon reaching Cobh. We left "early" at 8. Placing us arriving in Cobh roughly 25 minutes later. Little did we know, and surely did we discover, that Ireland simple doesnt do early. Ireland doesnt wake up until a good 9... usually 11 o clock. So when we showed up looking for food, we were sorely disappointed to discover not only was there nothing open, but there was no one about! So we found a free parking area and set out, wandering the wet streets, ohhhing and awweeing over the pretty and artistic streets lined with colorful houses and storefronts- a refreshing offset to the damp grey clouds and chilly misty air. We did ultimately find a little dive open at about 9, went inside and got a small breakfast. This was our first taste of true Irish hospitality! We ordered wraps (the only breakfasty items they seemed to offer was a salmon bagel... no... just no). After we paid and sat down we noticed a young man run out of the store, only to return a few minutes later with a few grocery bags in hand. 10 minutes later we had our food- aparently they had to run out to purchase goods for our meal! I felt awful, but what are you to do? Its not at all customary to tip, so we simply offered a heartfelt thank you and were on our way, and referred people to them later!
We made our way to the Titanic Experience center. Cobh had been the very last stop for the famous Titanic years ago. She picked up 123 passengers and then sailed on her maiden voyage across the Atlantic- never to complete her journey due to unfortunate conditions, an iceberg and an over confident captain sailing the vessel far to fast. The original ticket center there in Cobh is still standing- and has since been converted into a tourist attraction of sorts. We paid the E.10 or whatever it was and had ourselves a very memorable experience. They gave us "tickets" with a passengers name on them. Mine was for a Roger Tobin, a 22 year old male who sailed in 3rd class. It was only ironic I got someone who matched my own identity, but it definitely made the experience more personal. We were then guided through a relatively short deal where we "boarded the ship" "met the captain" and were escorted to our "rooms". We viewed the menu for the evening and even took a sneak peek at the 1st class cabins- my were they impressive! We then took a step out on the deck and viewed the original dock from whence the Titanic sailed away from land for the very last time. We then were escorted back inside to a historical room filled with some artifacts retrieved from the ship. Here we also did research on our given name, and ultimately discovered the fate of them. Roger Tobin was lost at sea, never to be found. However his two friends he was traveling with, both females of the same age, survived, and they credit Roger for saving them. It was a touching and memorable experience, one I would gladly do again if only for the humbling and perspective altering experience of it all.
After clearing a few tears, we did leave Cobh and headed back towards Cork, but only to pass by it enroute for Kenmare. But we did decide to take the scenic route, taking us down along the coast by Kinsale, Clonakilty and more. However our lovely GPS had different intentions. We did make it to Kinsale, however somewhere between there and our next coast destination she made decisions that led us on a horribly wrong path. We were not upset, however. Kinsale was a wonderful little town filled with rude french tourist. They grunted at us the whole time and absolutely refused to budge and inch to allow us to move our car. We literally had to sit and wait until they decided they were darn good and ready. I wasnt about to nudge them with my car, though I had a good mind to! After Kinsale we found ourselves SOMEWHERE along the line, not really sure where. We stumbled upon a few small towns, found some adorable old churches and even a few castle ruins. We even found an amazing place called Charles Fort- an old, well, fort that is well preserved. So for a few dollars we were allowed to crawl all over and inspect the fantastic rustic ruins of what was. It was very interested and neat! We discovered amazing countryside and beautiful scenery. We were not upset by our deviation. We even found ourselves nearly picking up a hitchhiker (actually two) but by the time we swung around to get them, they had already been picked up. So far no reports of a murder.
Somehow we ended up on a mountainous road that was definitely not a one way road, much less two. It looked more like a horse trail, but we followed it up and over a mountain- lending us some of the most gorgeous views we have set to date. Finally flooow, our GPS, did manage to find us in Kenmare, our destination.
However our adventure surely did not stop there. Oh no. We spent the next two lovely hours driving all over Kenmare and back, through Kenmares backroads and even beyond looking for our Bed and Breakfast. We tried to call, we tried to search we even found a wifi hotspot and tried that, to no avail. At this point we were both so hungy and so tired and so in need of a restroom we finally planted the car downtown and hit to the stores in search of a restroom. Well of course it was late enough that all the decent ones were closed- and the few that were open to cater to the tourists were for "guests only" so we finally happened ourselves upon a lovely B&B owner whos place was right downtown who let us in to relieve ourselves and then gave us fine directions to our place that night. We finally found our way to the most adorable little thatched roof cottage youve probably never seen but dreamed of.
Our hostess was the kindest of all kind ladies. Sweet as iced tea I would say. A round and friendly women who was warm as freshly baked bread invited us in and offered coffee or tea, and showed us to the most adorable room. Hand carved beds, stands, cloths chest, lamps etc. Just romantic and incredibly warm and welcoming. She invited us in and then guided us in the right direction for some good food and night time entertainment. We made our way back to town- the right side of town this time and had a wonderful evening with fantastic music, really tastey food and friendly folks.
Making our way back we enjoyed a relaxing evening and a restful nights sleep in more than adequate beds.
So in all we had an amazing day! So wonderful and fantastic, Ireland is truly the most amazing place I have ever been. Sure we may have had a few negative experiences, but they were liked grains of sand in an ocean of wonderful bliss, so friendly and nice and warm and kind and amazing and beautiful and tastey and good and whole and green and... splendid!
oh... and the sheep! We found ourselves a little hillside covered in sheep doing their sheep thing, which is making adorable noises and prancing about- it pretty much made my day!
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